Your Gardening Questions & Answers

Q:  I want to plant a garden to attract birds and butterflies.  What will work?

  A: You can attract both birds and butterflies to your garden by selecting a variety of trees and plants that will benefit them.

Butterflies love milkweed, lantana and nasturtiums for example.  Birds enjoy the fruit of serviceberry, dogwood, chokeberry and crabapple and will also use them for shelter. Some plants such as Echinacea Purpurea (or purple coneflower) will provide food for the butterflies in the summer and seeds for the birds in the late summer and into fall.   Feeders placed strategically by a tree or shrub, to offer quick protection from prey, and close enough to provide viewing from windows will bring pleasure both for the birds and the gardener as we enjoy their feeding and frolic.  Birds also enjoy a clean, fresh water supply by way of a birdbath, which should also be placed closed to a tree or shrub. Rather than cutting perennials back each fall, leave this chore until spring to provide seed and fruit for migrating or over wintering birds. Trees and shrubs provide perches, nesting spots and wind protection for the birds and some will also attract caterpillars. Check with neighbours and friends to learn which perennials, shrubs and trees work best in your growing area.

Q: My front porch is rather uninteresting and lacks curb appeal.  What can I do to help it?

  A:  If the porch has any windows, adding window boxes will provide some interest and additional colour.  Selecting planters that relate to the particular style of the house will provide colour and blend well to provide a great focal point. A country style home might benefit from an old churn or potato baskets filled with blooms. A traditional style home might benefit from two classic urns on either side of the front door. This not only adds interest, but also makes the front entrance more obvious for visitors.  Rotating plants and greenery in planters or window boxes also provides changing interest throughout the seasons. Some porches might benefit from a bench or bistro set where the morning paper and coffee can be enjoyed and where vases of cut flowers can be displayed.

Q:  I have heard people talk a lot about mulch.  What is it and how do I use it in my garden?

  A:  Mulch can include shredded leaves; bark chips, compost or well-rotted farm manure.  Mulch provides several purposes for the gardener.  It prevents weed germination, reduces water evaporation, and helps keep the soil moist and plant roots cool in summer and insulated through the winter.  For weed prevention mulch should be applied about 2–3 inches (5-8 cm) deep in spring and the bed should be weeded and watered well before mulch application.  Any weeds that do grow through the mulch will be much easier to pull. Winter protection of tender perennials can be achieved with a mulch about 6-8 inches (10-15cm) deep applied in the late fall after the ground is frozen.  Winter mulch might consist of evergreen branches, straw or leaf mulch and should not be applied too close to the crown of tender plants, which can encourage rot or attract rodents or pests.  Mulches for flowerbeds might consist of a layer of compost under bark chips to provide a more manicured and formal look and still provide soil amendment.

  Q:  I am just getting started in gardening.  What tools should I purchase initially?

  A:  As your landscape and garden grows you will find that your tool wish list becomes longer.  Initially I would suggest purchasing a round point shovel, an edging tool, a hoe and a sturdy set of pruning shears.  The shovel will serve a variety of purposes including digging new beds, transplanting, and moving a variety of materials such as soil or compost.  The edging tool will help shape and design new planting areas and keep established garden edges separate from lawns.  A hoe has long been a standard tool in every gardeners shed.  It helps prepare new beds, remove weeds and dig the furrows for planting seeds.  Pruning shears provide assistance with manicure and pruning of perennials, shrubs and small tree branches and most importantly allow us to enjoy the “fruits” or blooms of our hard work with cut flowers.  Another important tool that I would suggest every gardener purchase initially is a good “weeding” fork.  This tool is likely the most used tool in my repertoire and is simply a three-tined fork that fits comfortably into the gardener’s hand. My mother taught me to use this tool and I much prefer it to any trowel.  It is used not only for the obvious task of weeding, but also for transplanting seedlings and for loosening soil in planters and beds; a required purchase as far as I am concerned.  No matter what tools you choose, ensure you buy the best quality your budget allows and remember to provide regular maintenance and cleaning to extend the life of your trusty ‘friends’. 

  Q:  Every year my peonies proudly display their magnificent blooms only to ‘flop’ unceremoniously in the first heavy rain.  What can I do to prevent their ‘downfall’? 

  A:  Every spring I vow to stake my plants early and this is really key since it allows the plants to grow through the stakes and gives a more natural appearance.  Your choice of stake can range from the elaborate ‘peony’ stakes that have been developed for this specific purpose, to something simpler such as wooden stakes and ties.  The peony stakes consist of a stake and adjustable ring that can be moved and raised as the peony grows.  A less expensive method consists of simply cutting slim wooden stakes, trimming one end to a point and inserting several of them into the soil at equal intervals around the plant diameter, camouflaging the stakes in among the plant foliage and taking care not to damage the plants roots.  The flower stems are then held in place with ties (twist ties or Velcro plant ties will work), which can be wrapped in a spider web fashion to allow the foliage to grow up through it.  As the peony grows, more ties can be added.  Be sure to use stakes of a height sufficient to match the plant’s mature growth and not to tie the foliage too tight as this gives a rather unnatural appearance. Staking early and being vigilant in ties or ring adjustment as the plant grows will prevent your blooms from looking wilted and ‘jilted’ after the next rain. 

  Q:  My bistro set is wrought iron and is starting to rust.  How do I clean it?

  A:  If there is only a small amount of rust it can be gently removed with some steel wool or fine sandpaper.  If you don’t like the “scratched” effect that this gives, then you might want to apply a coat of paint.  Use a spray paint with a rust-inhibitor in it and there are lots of these available on the market now – simply check with your local hardware or paint store for advice.  Painting also provides the chance to make your bistro set into a real focal point in the garden.  You might choose a bright blue or vibrant yellow or even one colour for the table and a complimentary colour for the chairs.  Remember to store your set in a dry place for the winter, protected from the moisture of rain and snow.

Q:  I am interested in growing some herbs.  What do I need to start and which ones should I grow?

  A:  You will never regret the decision to grow your own herbs, but herb selection should be based on your own individual tastes and uses. Herbs are great in cooking but can also be used in crafts or teas and even for medicinal purposes.  If using them for cooking I would suggest starting with basil (my personal favourite), thyme, parsley, rosemary, and oregano.  Thyme and oregano are perennials so can be placed among your flowers or in a permanent spot in your vegetable or herb garden.  I treat basil, parsley, and rosemary as annuals and usually grow them in a large planter located close to my kitchen.  Herbs love sun and well-drained soil and are truly easy care.  Pinching the growing tips will allow the plants to branch more and also allows you to enjoy the aromatic pleasure of this task.  Keeping their blooms deadheaded will also extend their season for you.  Herbs can be cut and dried for enjoyment through the winter or you can move the plants indoors onto a sunny windowsill for the winter, but be aware that lower light levels will produce less flavorful foliage. If you enjoy mint, be sure to plant this herb in a container since it is very aggressive and will quickly take over the garden.

Q:  What can I grow up my arbor to provide a privacy screen in a sunny area?

  A: You have several options, but an interesting screen can be developed with kiwi (Actinidia kolomitka), grape (Beta or Bluebell) or honeysuckle (Lonicera x brownii ‘Dropmore Scarlet’) vines.  All of these prefer full sun and well-drained soil. The kiwi foliage is very attractive with green leaves edged with pink and white. You will require both a male and female kiwi plant if you want them to produce fruit.  Both grape varieties are hardy in the Maritimes and are self-pollinating.  Their fruit is great for jelly and juice and even eating if you don’t mind the seeds.  The honeysuckle vine provides attractive foliage and flowers and is a favorite of hummingbirds as well. While you are waiting for any of these selections to mature you might plant scarlet runner beans in between.  These are an annual pole bean that is enjoyed by the hummingbirds, provide pretty orange flowers and even edible beans.  Spaced appropriately, they will provide cover in a growing season and can easily be removed in the fall after the frost.

Q:   A question about glad bulbs. They look wonderful.  I did nothing to them until yesterday.  Now they are all pealed and sprouting beautifully.  Should they be ok just sitting in a box until mid May when I will plant them indoors when we return from our cruise?  Will they spoil or dry out so exposed?

A.  Gladiolus bulbs, (and most everyone I know refers to them as bulbs, but a tidbit of info – they are actually “corms”) are best stored at 40 – 50 degrees F. over the winter.  Those that are sprouting will most likely be okay in the spring, but I would suggest trying to move them to a cooler spot (and out of light) to slow the growth for now.  If you live in the Halifax area you are lucky this year, as I understand you have minimal snow left and it is looking like spring.  Gladioli can be planted as soon as the ground is warm enough to work and I would suggest that the sprouting corms be planted first.  I have a fairly large collection of glads and plant most of them in a cutting garden; I have found that staggering plantings at two week intervals provides indoor bouquets for a longer period of time; ‘Glads’ are heavy feeders so make certain that all are provided with a good start of compost or manure, but those that have already sprouted will really benefit from some extra ‘food’ Bloom size and amounts are increased with the addition of high phosphorous fertilizer once growth is well established. 

 A hint for next fall’s storage:  I find that gladioli store well in the large rectangular seed starting trays in either peat moss or vermiculite and even the fine sawdust from my husband’s workshop works great to keep them dry; I then layer the trays in a large cardboard box which protects them from the light and still allows good air circulation; The cool temperatures are particularly important though to prevent the early sprouting. 

   Please send along any questions you may have to webby@atlanticmastergardeners.com and then watch for the response in an updated installment of this page.